Istria on two wheels (3): into the heart of Koper’s countryside

Following both well-known and lesser-known trails around the Karst Edge, this time we venture into the heart of the Koper countryside. We’ll cycle through Montinjan, Marezige, Kocjančiči, Kubed, Gračišče, Popetre, and descend into Lopar, Potok, and finally Vanganel. Once again, we won’t be left hungry or thirsty — along the way, we’ll stop at some local producers, and we’ll also present some accommodation options for those who want to extend their adventure through the Koper countryside.

FIRST CHALLENGE – THE ASCENT TO MONTINJAN

Our third cycling tour starts in Vanganel, where you can park your vehicle for free next to the local sports field. From here, a fairly steep climb awaits you (with a gradient of up to 15% in some parts) to the small and picturesque village of Montinjan. A further short ascent will bring you to Marezige, the “epicenter” of refošk wine country. Alongside the panoramic platform, offering one of the most majestic views of the Gulf of Trieste (on clear days, you can even see the Julian Alps and the Dolomites), you’ll find several places to sit and enjoy the scenery. The most famous attraction is, of course, the Wine Fountain – the first of its kind in Slovenia. Next to it is a small shop selling various local delicacies. Nearby and around the viewing platform, you’ll also find a wide range of dining options, including the Štoka Tourist Farm, Karjola Restaurant, Refoškoladnica patisserie, and the Neapolitan-style pizzeria The Holy Crust – Casa oasa.

JUST HALF A KILOMETER AWAY — COMPLETE PEACE

About 400 meters past the local Church of the Holy Cross, turn left at the sign for Vilij Bržan Wine Cellar, and you’ll already find yourself far from the tourist bustle, in the old, authentic Istria. Vilij Bržan and his family is taking care of the oldest vineyard in Slovenian Istria (located on the other side of the hill) and offer excellent wines. At their homestead, there’s a scenic spot for campervan overnight stays with a stunning view of the surrounding villages and the sea. The wine cellar also hosts guided tastings and will gladly show you the historic vineyard.

A SPECIAL CRAFT BEER STORY IN KOCJANČIČI

From Marezige, continue along the main road toward Kavaliči, where you’ll be greeted by a stunning view of the Rokava valley all the way to Slavnik. At the crossroads (straight leads to Sv. Anton, right to Lopar), look right for a dirt track marked as part of the Slovenian mountain biking trail, which leads across Hrib to Dolane. This technically varied but not overly demanding section winds through the forest, where a beautiful meadow appears on the right before descending into Dolane (Sv. Anton) and onto the main road. Quickly turn right toward Kocjančiči.

This small and hidden village is home to a unique brewery story. At Kocjančiči 22, Aleš Marušič crafts spontaneously fermented beers under the 22 Brewing label. His distinctive sour beers, aged in wooden barrels, carry a local identity – one of the most well-known is named Karatel, a local nickname for a wine barrel. Aleš also brews lighter, more drinkable styles such as ale, blond ale, and pale ale, depending on his inspiration and upcoming events. Guided tastings are available by calling +386 40 531 355. Every first-time cyclist visitor gets a free draft beer, Aleš adds.

TOWARDS PICTURESQUE KUBED

After a refreshment break, climb from Kocjančiči to Dvori. From there, continue right; at the former Mohoreč Inn, turn left, then soon right onto a wide gravel path descending downhill. This section is both a mountain bike and European walking trail, requiring some caution due to loose gravel. After a few kilometers, you’ll arrive in the center of the village of Kubed.

If cycling with family, Kubed offers a unique experience — Giants of Istria, which introduces local legends about ancient Istrian inhabitants – »giants«. We also recommend riding up to the remains of the medieval fortress and the Church of St. Florian above the village. Enjoy the view and take a walk to the Alojz Kocjančič Memorial House, which regularly hosts artists. Guided visits for groups (5 to 20 people) can be arranged in advance by contacting Imelda Korytowski at +386 41 328 106 or Vojko Udovič at +386 64 155 512. The house is surrounded by a lovely garden with another spectacular view of the Karst Edge.

THE RAŽMAN INN IN GRAČIŠČE SINCE 1962

From Kubed, continue to Gračišče along a main road that is relatively quiet outside the summer season. In the center of the village, you’ll first see the Ražman Wine Cellar on the right, followed shortly by the Ražman Inn, run by the Ražman family since 1962. The family hails from nearby Popetre, where they maintain 5.5 hectares of vineyards, olive groves, and orchards. Young Rok Ražman, a PhD in electrical engineering and a level-three sommelier, now leads the wine cellar. His brother Nik Ražman runs the inn with help from their parents and occasionally their 85-year-old grandmother. They’ve been working with wine for over a century. The main grape varieties are refošk, malvasia, and maločrn, along with some syrah, cabernet sauvignon, and yellow muscat. Olive oil, refošk juice, and various spirits crafted by Nik are sold at the inn. Nik, also a level-three sommelier, specializes in sparkling wines from the ancient maločrn variety, locally known as plavina. “Only a few winemakers still produce varietal wines from maločrn, which was once widespread but nearly disappeared,” Rok adds.

The inn, known for pizzas in the 1980s, has for over 20 years focused on traditional Istrian cuisine. Must-tries include fuži with truffles and homemade gnocchi with beef or game goulash. Seasonal dishes are a highlight, especially wild asparagus in spring. Cyclists and hikers are regular guests.
For those needing rest or wishing to continue exploring Istria, they offer accommodation: three rooms above the inn named after native Istrian varieties — Refošk, Malvazija, and Plavina – and three campervan spaces in front of the cellar. Wine tastings can be held in the cellar, the inn, or at different locations on request.

GLAMPING IN HARMONY WITH NATURE

From Gračišče, a short climb leads to Popetre, where you can admire some examples of preserved Istrian architecture. Continue toward Lopar — after a short ascent, you’ll reach a steep descent. Near the beginning of the descent, look right for a large pond with a picnic table and benches – a perfect rest stop. After about a kilometer on a quiet asphalt road, turn right at the crossroads onto the wine road toward Lopar. A short descent later, you’ll enter the idyllic Istrian village of Lopar, where you can visit the Hiša od Bardinca.

From Lopar, descend into the Rokava Valley. You may encounter a herd of goats along the way. On the right, a gravel road leads to a very special estate managed by Andrej Stijepič, who offers a unique glamping experience. There’s only one glamping cabin – without electricity, traditional toilets, or a bathroom. Nestled on a forest terrace in total peace, this is an ideal retreat for travelers seeking a true escape and direct connection with nature.

After one last short climb, you’ll reach a crossroads – turn right to return to Marezige or left to Sv. Anton. This time, continue straight into Kavaliči, and from there descend past the hamlet of Potok, offering stunning views of Koper’s outskirts and the sea. Following the Badaševica Valley, you’ll return to Vanganel, where you can replace the many burned calories (and there will be many) at Gostilna Nimis, known for its grilled meat specialties, or at Gostilna Oljka, famous for various ombolo-in-dough combinations and excellent seafood dishes.

KEY INFORMATIONS ABOUT THE ROUTE