Istria on two wheels (4): along the trails of the Istrian “Tuscany”

Our fourth cycling tour took us to the far edge of Koper’s countryside and Slovenian Istria, along the trails of the “Istrian Tuscany”. We even crossed briefly into Croatian Istria before returning to the Slovenian side, passing charming Istrian villages such as Hrvoji, Belvedur, Sirči … As usual, we made a few stops to rest and enjoy local specialties offered by small-scale producers.

FIRST STOP, IF IT’S NOT TOO COLD – A REFRESHING DIP IN THE DRAGONJA RIVER

The starting point of our fourth ride is Marezige, where you can park your vehicle for free next to Gostilna Karjola. From there, head downhill to the left toward Babiči, and at the first junction, turn left toward Boršt, then immediately right onto a road that will eventually reconnect with the road toward Župančiči. Turn right and continue along the Rokava stream. When you reach the area known as Škrline, where Rokava flows into Dragonja, you’ll spot a beautifully restored traditional Istrian house on your right. Here, turn left to cross the Rokava (the water level is usually low, especially in summer, though after rain it may rise to knee level – some creativity might be needed), and further along the gravel road, you’ll cross the Dragonja via an old stone bridge. In early summer, the Dragonja has plenty of water here – perfect for a refreshing dip in its pools.

THE BRIČ ESTATE – A TOUCH OF TUSCANY

After crossing the bridge, turn right and begin a lively 5.5 km ascent (on a very well-maintained gravel road) to the Brič Wine Cellar, located on a stunning hilltop with views of the sea and terraced vineyards reminiscent of Tuscany. The Brič Estate covers 36 hectares, including 31 hectares of vineyards and 5 hectares of olive groves. They began operations in 2000 and today produce about 60% red and 40% white wines, totaling around 70,000 liters annually. They note that production was once even higher, but yields have decreased due to their transition to organic farming.

Their range includes fresh whites and aged reds. White varieties include malvasia, pinot grigio, sweet muscat, rosé, and three different orange wines. A highlight is their rare dry, macerated yellow muscat. Among the reds (refosco, merlot, cabernet sauvignon), they also produce cabernet franc – not typical for the Istrian region. A major milestone came in 2022 when their refosco “Vinagra” 2018 vintage received the prestigious Decanter Gold – the first ever Decanter gold for a Slovenian refosco.

A MUST-VISIT FOR ARCHITECTURE LOVERS

Wine Cellar Brič is also a must-see for fans of architecture. The cellar was designed by Boris Podrecca, one of Slovenia’s most prominent contemporary architects. The design blends seamlessly with its surroundings and pays modern tribute to Istrian architectural heritage. Many façades are clad in local dry stone, with accents of walnut veneer and glass. No wonder Brič is ranked among the 100 most beautiful wine cellars in the world.

A SHORT DETOUR INTO CROATIAN ISTRIA

Just a few meters past the cellar, you’ll cross the former border checkpoint. After about a kilometer, you’ll enter the tranquil Croatian village of Brič, followed by the picturesque village of Kučibreg. After about two more kilometers, you’ll be back in Slovenia in the village of Hrvoji. Ride through the village and climb past the church to the local cemetery for breathtaking views of the hilly Istrian countryside, the sea, and even the Karst Edge. On clear days, you can see Slavnik, Nanos, the Julian Alps to the north, Mount Učka to the east, and the Dolomites towering above the Gulf of Trieste.

Descending back to the main road, continue toward Belvedur. If you’re feeling adventurous, look out for a small sign on your right pointing to Abitanti – a 3 km detour along a scenic gravel path that takes you past an old mill to a remote Istrian village. Once nearly abandoned, the village is being revived thanks to tourism, largely due to the Perič family at the restored Grondali homestead. They offer traditional Istrian dishes, their own wine, homemade products, and accommodations.

MARIMA FARM – A HAVEN FOR DRIED FRUIT LOVERS

If you skip the detour to Abitanti, you’ll soon reach Belvedur, where you’ll spot an old inn known for its truffle fuži. Continue along the scenic main road with little traffic to Sirči, then toward Gračišče, and turn left at the sign for Trebeše. Here you can find Marima Farm, which comprises of three hectares of orchards with persimmons, figs, pears, plums, apricots, plus a hectare of olive trees and a vineyard of table grapes. “We follow organic principles and avoid synthetic sprays and fertilizers,” they say. “We value the food we grow, so we do all processing by hand to maintain the highest quality.” Their main products include dried figs, persimmons, plums, pears, apricots, extra virgin olive oil, fresh grapes, and raisins. They also offer accommodations and guided tours of their farm and nearby natural attractions. 

GREEN HOUSE ISTRIA – A TRIBUTE TO THE ŠAVRINKE WOMEN

From Trebeše, rejoin the main road and continue through Butari, Poletiči, and Popetre, then on to Trsek and Kozloviči before arriving in Truške. Here, visit the “Hiške slovenske Istre” (Green House Istria) – a special accommodation and hospitality project run by Tilen and Andrej. Their goal: to offer guests not only a place to sleep and eat but an experience rooted in authenticity and local life. They collaborate with local producers such as Bočaj Ecological Farm, Herbal Paradise of Slovenian Istria, Marima Farm, all of which offer a range of authentic experiences. They serve also Istrian breakfast with fresh cheese from Potok, cured meats from Trček in Hrastovlje, and cheese from the Korošec farm in Socerb. Andrej, a passionate home chef, prepares both breakfasts and dinners inspired by traditional Istrian cuisine.

The standout feature: the three tiny houses – Mlekarica (Dairymaid), Jajcarica (Egg Seller), and Krušarica (Bread Seller) – are named after the resilient Šavrinke women who once carried their goods in baskets on their heads to sell in Trieste. The houses have no electricity, feature antique furniture, and offer stunning views all the way to the sea and Dolomites on clear days. A perfect escape from the hustle of modern life.

A DELICIOUS NEAPOLITAN PIZZA TO END THE DAY

From the nostalgic tiny houses, it’s just a few more kilometers back to Marezige, where you can wrap up your ride with an exceptional Neapolitan pizza by Anja Suton at The Holy Crust, located on the ground floor of Casa Oasa.

Anja began baking pizzas as a hobby five years ago, but it quickly became her passion. She focuses on a hybrid sourdough crust and uses high-quality ingredients imported from Italy. “My pizza is an homage to classic Neapolitan pizza. I deeply respect its tradition – I don’t claim it as my own but simply add my piece to the mosaic of its long history,” she says.