Istria on two wheels (5): Koper’s "mare e monti"

For the fifth cycling tour through the Koper countryside, we adapted to the summer heat with a refreshing dip in the sea. We also chose a route that was a bit less demanding, but still rewarded us with stunning views of Koper Bay, the old town center, and also a glimpse of nearby Izola.

FROM SEMEDELA INTO THE COUNTRYSIDE

You can start this tour from any of the many parking areas around Koper. We recommend the P+R parking in Semedela, next to the Badaševica river, which offers all-day parking for just 2 euros and is usually not crowded on weekends.

THE MOST CHALLENGING PART – THE CLIMB TO POMJAN

From here, take the cycling road past Semedela and Olmo, and continue along Badaševica until you reach a junction with the largest winery in Slovenian Istria ahead -Vinakoper. After passing their wine boutique (where you can buy wines and other local products), turn right towards Triban (home to the well-known MonteMoro winery) and continue to Vanganel – that was also the starting point of our third cycling tour Istria on two wheels: into the heart of Koper’s countryside.

After passing the Nimis Inn and the small Vanganel church, you’ll reach a roundabout. Take the second exit, which will lead you up a short but steep hill between Vanganel houses. At the top, turn right, and after about 200 meters, turn sharply left onto a slight uphill.

Soon you’ll reach a gravel path winding through olive groves all the way to Čentur. In the middle of the village, you’ll see an old watering hole, which usually dries up in the summer months. Next to it, by the old trough once used for watering livestock, there’s a working tap where you can refresh yourself and refill your bottle. From Čentur, descend to the main road towards Babiči (watch for traffic), and from the bus stop at the top of Babiči, continue uphill towards Pomjan.

You’ll pass the small hamlet of Rojci and its small church surrounded by trees – a shady spot for a short rest before tackling the steepest asphalt climb of the route. But don’t worry, the amazing views of the Vanganel Valley and the sea make it worth the effort.

THE REWARD – A MAJESTIC VIEW

The most spectacular view awaits at the very top in Pomjan. From the viewpoint next to the cemetery, you’ll enjoy a breathtaking panorama of Koper Bay, and on clear days, even the Dolomites in Italy. The shaded viewpoint is perfect for a break before continuing – mostly downhill or flat from here on out, with only a couple of short ascents left.

After a short descent through picturesque Pomjan, you can detour to Supot waterfall. The first part is bikeable, but the last stretch requires walking your bike. The waterfall is best visited in wetter months, as it tends to dry up in summer.

If you stay on the main route, you’ll soon face the next short climb and continue through Poljane, followed by a steeper descent into the village of Šmarje. We suggest a stop at the beautifully renovated square next to the parish church.

A MUST – PHEASANT SOUP WITH »NAKLDA« AT GOSTILNA TRIJE LOVCI

Continue downhill toward the roundabout (locally known as krožera) on the main Koper–Dragonja road in Srgaši. Here you can enjoy a meal at Gostilna Trije lovci, in operation since 1971. Start with homemade elderflower juice, then explore the menu of local specialties – from pizzas to game meat. Don’t miss the excellent pheasant soup with »naklda«, prepared by chef Mladen Orejaš according to a nearly forgotten Istrian recipe.

Refreshed and refueled, cross the roundabout and take a short but steep climb to Gažon. There, at Gažon 63a, you can visit the Rojac wine cellar (by appointment), known for its top-quality Istrian wines.

A HIDDEN “TERRACE” WITH A STUNNING VIEW

As you pass through the village, the view opens again to Koper Bay. One of the most beautiful vistas, however, comes near the end: just after the Gažon football field, take a gravel road to the right, then turn again immediately right onto a wide path leading to a “hidden terrace” with an incredible panoramic view – Izola and Piran to the left, and the Trieste Riviera, Muggia, and the Alps to the right.

Continue along the wide gravel road, which soon becomes paved again and leads to upper Semedela. Descend past the Izola hospital to the area near “Ruda” (Merkur store), where you can hop onto the Parenzana bike path. One part of this popular route connects Izola and Koper along the coast.

A FINAL REFRESH IN THE SEA AND A STROLL THROUGH KOPER’S OLD TOWN

Along this two-kilometer section, you can park your bike and jump in the sea almost anywhere. A special spot is the site where the legendary ocean liner Rex was sunk during WWII – once the pride of the Italian navy. If you prefer a more equipp thai ed beach, head to Žusterna or the new seaside park that is nearby.

Wrap up your tour with a stroll through Koper’s old town. Treat yourself to an ice cream at Sladoledarna or enjoy a cold drink at one of the many cafés on Pristaniška Street or Tito Square. Be sure to visit Golden Loggia Café, where you can enjoy excellent drinks, pastries, and snacks with a stunning view of one of Slovenia’s most beautiful squares. You can even climb the bell tower for one last breathtaking view of Koper and its surroundings.

KEY INFORMATIONS ABOUT THE ROUTE