Istria on two wheels: autumn Views from Krkavče to Boršt and back

Thanks to its mild climate, Slovenian Istria invites cyclists to unforgettable experiences all year round. In autumn, the landscape glows with warm colors, offering particularly enchanting views. This seasonal route will take you through the picturesque Koper villages of Krkavče, Puče, Koštabona, Pomjan, and the Dragonja Valley. If you wish to extend your tour, add a detour via Boršt – a treat for the more physically fit cycling enthusiasts.

Start in Krkavče 

Begin your cycling trip in Krkavče, an idyllic Istrian village at the southern edge of the Koper municipality, often described as an open-air museum. If time allows, plan to end your ride at sunset, when Krkavče, with its stone houses and rocky hilltop setting, glows in shades of red and gold.

The most mysterious stone 

Since Krkavče is deeply connected with stone, you can start by visiting its most mysterious landmark – the Krkavče Stone, located just a short walk from the cemetery at the village entrance, where you can park your car. The stone is a 1.5-meter-high megalith dating back to the 1st or 2nd century BC and is considered one of the most important relics of Slovenia’s pre-Christian era.

After the visit, continue along the road toward Puče, the next clustered Istrian settlement along the ridge in the southwestern part of the Šavrini Hills, above the Dragonja River Valley.

Authentic Istrian cuisine at Tonin farm

In Puče, you can visit the Tonin Tourist Farm, which welcomes groups (15) by prior reservation (phone: +386 31 559 094). Here, you can enjoy authentic Istrian dishes – starting with a homemade cold platter, followed by gnocchi and pasta served with various stews (chicken, game, beef, or sausage). They also serve meat cooked “under the bell.” The meal is complemented by house olive oil and wines: Malvasia, Refošk, Yellow Muscat, and sparkling wine. Accommodation is available in four apartments (2+2).

An interesting fact: the Tonin family has long hosted the traditional “Klobasijada” sausage festival every February 7th, the eve of Slovenia’s Cultural Holiday, where the best Istrian sausage is chosen.

Koštabona offers stunning views over the Dragonja valley

From Puče, return to the main road and continue toward Koštabona. Soon after the junction, you’ll be rewarded with a magnificent view of this picturesque village perched on a natural promontory above the Dragonja River. Koštabona is an ancient settlement with a history dating back to Roman times, when it served as a fortress. Along the way, you’ll pass the Church of St. Cosmas and Damian (built in 1446), and you can descend to the Church of St. Andrew from the 15th century, beautifully positioned at the end of the promontory, offering breathtaking views of the valley.

Two routes – for leisurely riders and the adventurous

Return to St. Cosmas and Damian’s Church and turn right uphill onto a gravel road. After a few kilometers through fields and olive groves, the road connects with the asphalt route from Šmarje to Pomjan. Be sure to stop at the viewpoint near St. George’s Church cemetery, which offers a splendid panorama of the Koper Bay – on clear days, the view stretches all the way to the Julian Alps and the Dolomites. From here, continue toward Fijeroga and on to the hamlet of Župančiči, just above the Dragonja Valley road.

From here, you can choose between two routes. For a shorter and easier ride, turn right toward Škrline.

The second option is for the more adventurous and physically fit cyclists looking to spice up their trip. Turn left toward Babiči; after 2.5 km, at the crossroads, turn right to Boršt, a village sitting 353 meters above sea level atop Mount Varda. A demanding 2 km ascent to Boršt, often dubbed the “King of Istrian Climbs”, awaits you – a true challenge even for experienced road cyclists. It’s no surprise that this climb often features in the Istrian Cycling Marathon route.

Vineyards bathed in autumn sunlight 

Once you catch your breath in the clustered village of Boršt, continue toward Labor, passing the small stone Church of St. Roch, the village hall, and the old school building. The road leads you past vineyards glowing red in the autumn sun – a perfect complement to the surrounding views. In Labor, you’ll find the Istrape Distillery, located right at the village entrance. They specialize in distilling grape marc. Their flagship spirits – Trapa Malvazija and Trapa Refošk – reach 40-45% ABV and have already won some awards at different spirits festivals in the Balkans. They also produce several gins and liqueurs. With prior notice (phone: +386 31 011 438), you can buy their products or join a guided tasting.

If you’re riding gravel or trekking bikes, it’s best to return the same way, as the stony descent from Labor to Škrline is steep and technically demanding — suitable only for full-suspension mountain bikes. If you’d still like to include it, you can walk the section (about 2.5 km) alongside your bike.

The Dragonja valley – paradise for gravel riding

Whichever route you choose, you’ll continue from Škrlini along the gravel road through the idyllic Dragonja Valley, known as a true paradise for gravel cycling thanks to its length and location. After just under 5 km, you’ll reach the turnoff to Krkavče – the final stage of your ride. Turn right and climb steeply at first along an asphalt road winding through olive groves, then onto a gravel path leading straight into the heart of this picturesque Istrian village.

If you followed the earlier advice and timed your return for sunset, you’ll be greeted with a breathtaking view of Krkavče and the valley below, glowing in the evening light.

In Krkavče, you can visit the Vrešje House, which brings the region’s rich heritage to life and offers visitors an unforgettable glimpse into the past. In the village center, stop by the Carcauec Olive Oil and Cosmetics House (by prior arrangement, phone: +386 41 977 492), where you can taste olive oil, table olives in brine, and persimmon vinegar, or try their natural olive-oil and lavender-based skincare products. In their olive groves, you might even meet a few friendly ponies.

For those with hearty appetites, visit the Robivera Tourist Farm (reservations: +386 41 739 024), where you can enjoy homemade Istrian cuisine — cold platters, soups, pljukanci pasta with mushrooms or radicchio, and fuži with truffles. Main dishes include ombolo (pork loin) in wine sauce, boškarin (Istrian ox) or game goulash, and more. They also serve their own olive oil and wines — Malvasia, Refošk, and Yellow Muscat. For tired cyclists or those wanting to explore more of the Koper countryside, accommodation is available in three apartments with a total capacity of eleven guests.