Istria on two wheels: discovering autumn’s hidden corners

Autumn is a perfect time to explore Slovenian Istria by bike. Mild temperatures and a landscape wrapped in warm autumn colors invite you to discover some of the more hidden corners of Koper’s countryside. The 33-kilometre circular route leads you past Bertoki, Dekani, Tinjan, Plavje, Škofije and Hrvatini, offering breathtaking views stretching all the way to the sea on the Ankaran Peninsula and across to Trieste. The tour is easy and suitable for everyone, especially on an e-bike, and along the way you’ll find plenty of stops with tips for refreshments, sights, and experiences.

First or last stop – a walk through the Škocjanski Zatok Nature Reserve

Our autumn cycling tour begins at Škocjanski zatok. Cycling is not allowed inside the Škocjanski zatok Nature Reserve, so you’ll need to explore its enchanting landscape on foot – a wetland oasis teeming with birdlife and salt-loving vegetation. If you prefer not to begin or end your bike ride with a walk through the reserve, you can park your car in Bertoki, above the local bus station.

The technical highlight – climb to Tinjan

From here, the route climbs through the village of Bertoki onto a road between vineyards, just above the iconic Vinakoper sign – easily spotted from the motorway when approaching Koper from the Dekani tunnel. At the end of the gravel road above the Rižana river valley, a short descent takes you across a charming stone bridge over the Rižana River and over the old main road that once connected Koper with Ljubljana.

Next is a climb to Dekani, home to the parish church of the Assumption of Mary, built in 1229. Its main altar painting and frescoes were created by the renowned painter Tone Kralj, whose work is featured in many churches across the Primorska region. From the village center, follow the sign for the mountain-biking trail. A gravel climb through the forest awaits – the most technically demanding part of the tour. After about a kilometre of ascent, you’ll reach the hamlet of Kolombar.

From here, the asphalt road leads up to Tinjan, where the first viewpoint offers a spectacular panorama of Trieste. Continuing through the village, you’ll be rewarded with even more breathtaking views over the Osp Valley, the Karst Edge, mounts Slavnik and Golič, and on clear days even Mount Učka in Croatia.

A wine stop at Plavje – vina Klenart 

From Tinjan, a descent takes you to Plavje, home to the well-known Istrian winery Klenart. At 110 meters above sea level, nestled between Koper and Trieste, their 12 hectares of vineyards produce malvasia, refošk, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, and their signature pinot noir. Their top sellers are the cabernet sauvignon Vinja and the sparkling wine Klen’art. Guided tastings are available by prior reservation.

A well deserved break in Škofije

From Plavje, you’ll ride downhill to Škofije – the perfect spot for a proper break, especially after conquering the Tinjan climb. There are several options for refreshments. Bar pod staro pumpo, below the old petrol station, is a favorite among seafood lovers, with dishes like baccalà, cuttlefish stew with polenta, grilled sardines, and other daily fresh catches. Gostilnica Caprese serves Neapolitan pizzas and a range of dishes inspired by both local Istrian and Italian cuisine. For dessert lovers, Slaščičarna Renata next door offers homemade cakes, pastries, and their famous doughnuts.

For history lovers – the Elerji hillfort

After your break, a short climb leads to the hamlet of Elerji, where history buffs can visit an archaeological site of a prehistoric hillfort (kaštelir). First settled around 1600 BCE, it remained strategically important until the 4th century BCE, controlling the area between the the rivers Osp and Rižana. You can also visit the nearby necropolis in Santa Barbara.

The best views await … 

The route continues through Fajti towards Hrvatini, where a well-maintained cycle path opens up stunning views over Muggia and Trieste. But the most beautiful vistas await a little further on.

After passing through Kolomban, look out for a gravel turn-off on your left. Here, you’ll descend through olive groves toward Barižoni, with magnificent views of the sea, Trieste, Grado, and Piran.

Wine lovers will be delighted to know that Kolomban is also home to Gordia Winery, famous for its organically produced, macerated wines. Winemaker Andrej Cep cultivates around 4 hectares of certified organic vineyards. They offer guided tastings by prior arrangement and also provide accommodation.

From Barižoni, the road descends to Resslov Gaj, a small forest rich in diverse tree and shrub species, named after Josef Ressel – the inventor of the ship’s propeller and the man behind 19th-century reforestation efforts in Istria and the Karst. A short educational walking trail winds through the forest, and from its southern slope you’ll spot the largest continuous olive grove in Slovenian Istria. Thanks to its elevation of 98 meters and proximity to the sea, the viewpoint offers spectacular coastal scenery.

A quick aperitif across the border

A short descent brings you to Lazaret, where you can easily cross into Italy for a quick aperitivo. After crossing the former border checkpoint, you’ll ride past the entrance to the campsite and soon turn left into the small marina, where you’ll find the charming and well-stocked seasonal Bar Lazzaretto Sunset Drink Village, open during spring, summer, and autumn (closed in case of rain).

After a pleasant break, return to Slovenia and head toward Ankaran. As you pass the entrance to the Debeli Rtič health resort, turn left onto a wide gravel road through the vineyards, offering even more scenic views. Continue through Valdoltra toward Ankaran.

The final stretch leads you along a cycling path to Škocjanski zatok, the largest brackish wetland in Slovenia. This peaceful oasis – rich in birdlife and natural beauty – makes the perfect ending to your autumn cycling adventure.