Istria on two wheels (1): under the enchanting Karst edge

Hrastovlje, with its Church of the Holy Trinity and famous medieval frescoes, is a must-see stop for many tourists. However, this diverse area with stunning views of the Karst Edge also offers plenty of opportunities for active tourism enthusiasts who enjoy discovering local offerings along the way. Below, we present a cycling tour that takes you through some lesser-known corners of this area while also introducing you to several local producers.

A MUST-STOP BEFORE YOU START: THE TRČEK FARM SHOP

An excellent starting point for this mostly easy-going e-bike tour – rich in breathtaking views of the Karst Edge – is the parking lot beneath the Church of the Holy Trinity, where parking is free. Just a few steps away, at Hrastovlje 11a, you’ll find the Trček Farm shop, renowned for its high-quality cured meats. We recommend stocking up on a few local treats here for your first snack break, which will follow shortly near the pond close to Zazid.

GOSTILNA ŠVAB FOR THE FINALE 

Start the tour from the parking area under the church and follow the marked K3 cycling route toward Dol pri Hrastovljah. Just a few pedal strokes in, you’ll come across the local gastronomic »institution«, Gostilna Švab. It’s a perfect spot for a drink at the beginning of the tour – and if needed, to recharge your e-bike, as there’s a charging station in front of the restaurant. Gostilna Švab is famous for its traditional Istrian cuisine. While a short stop is nice, we highly recommend returning for a full meal at the end of the tour to indulge in delicacies like local prosciutto, truffles, game, and more.

When you reach Dol pri Hrastovljah, ride through the picturesque village core until you see a sign for Zanigrad. Turn left there. Continue past the fire station on the gravel section of the K3 cycling route. A climb awaits you before the first scenic viewpoint – but your effort will be rewarded with a spectacular view from the Church of St. Stephen in Zanigrad, overlooking the Hrastovlje valley all the way to the sea.

THE MOST CHALLENGING PART OF THE TOUR

From this point, continue through a once-abandoned village that’s slowly being brought back to life. Pass under a railway underpass, where a good path turns into a rugged track. This is the tour’s most technically demanding section, where only experienced riders on mountain bikes will manage the rocky terrain. Less skilled or less fit cyclists may need to walk this part beside their bikes. Fortunately, the climb is short (about 600 meters), and it’s followed by a peaceful ride through forests and clearings.

pit STOP BY THE POND WITH A VIEW OF THE KARST EDGE

You’ll then arrive in the village of Zazid, known for its typical Istrian-Karst architecture – arched gates, canopies, and stone outbuildings. If you’re a cheese lover, make a quick stop at the Švab Farm (Zazid 10), where they produce organic hay-milk cheese from Cika cattle, Slovenia’s only native cattle breed. Just beyond the village of Zazid, follow route K4. On your left, enjoy sweeping views of the Karst Edge. You’ll soon reach a pond with benches and a table – a perfect picnic spot for your first break, where you can enjoy local delicacies picked up earlier. Just above the pond, Trček Farm’s Charolais cattle graze.

FOR THE BRAVE AND THE NOT-SO-BRAVE

If you still have energy, you can follow the K3 route to Rakitovec and then climb via K4 to the Karst Edge. The trail offers sweeping views over the valley and the sea. You can finish your ride in Bezovica and descend back to the Hrastovlje valley. For a gentler option, continue from Zazid along the main road to Podpeč – a village with one of the most dramatic views of the Karst Edge, as it lies directly beneath its towering cliff. The main landmark is an 11th-century defensive tower, which resembles an oven (peč) from afar and gave the clustered village its name. From the tower – one of the most popular viewpoints in Slovenian Istria – you’ll enjoy a spectacular panorama, but the village itself also boasts several scenic vistas.

One such viewpoint is offered by Guesthouse Kamniti rob at Podpeč 16, which is open year-round. It’s a popular stay for cycling enthusiasts who use it as a base for their biking adventures. The guesthouse offers four rooms with two beds, private bathrooms, along with a dining room, kitchen, and lounge (you can also rent the entire house). In the low season -autumn, winter, and spring – one room is converted into a sauna. But the heart of Kamniti rob is its 300 m² garden, where guests can relax and take in the view of the valley and the sea beyond.

RIŽANA LABYRINTH – A PLACE OF DEEP SYMBOLISM

From Podpeč, continue toward Bezovica. Just below the local church, turn left and descend through vineyards, olive groves, and fields into the valley until you reach the main road to Hrastovlje. But before that, take a short detour to the Rižana Labyrinth. Just before the stone bridge over the Rižana River, turn right. After a few minutes and another left turn, you’ll reach this unique location – the first stone labyrinth in Slovenia, inspired by the Gothic cathedral labyrinth in Chartres, France. Built near the spring of the Rižana River, it is made of stones from the river itself and features twelve circles and eleven paths, which should be walked in full (no skipping!). The labyrinth includes a cross symbol and six roses and is intended for reflection and calm.

It’s a beautiful final stop before heading back to Hrastovlje via the main road. On the way, you can also admire other Trček Farm animals grazing by the roadside, including goats, donkeys, and the majestic indigenous Istrian cattle – the boškarin.

KEY INFORMATION ABOUT THE ROUTE