Istria on two wheels (2): along the trails of the most stunning views of the Karst edge

Are you ready for a new cycling adventure? This time, we’re heading through some of the most breathtaking scenic routes beneath the Karst Edge. Along the way, we’ll also meet a few local producers, whom we’ll introduce in more detail further down.

VILA ROBIDA – A boutique haven for cyclists

An ideal starting point for a multi-day cycling getaway along the Karst Edge is Vila Robida – a boutique “hotel” paradise for cycling enthusiasts, where you can find everything you need in one place. Upon arrival, cyclists are greeted by a well-equipped bike storage area with basic repair tools, a compressor, and stands. The reception also sells essential cycling accessories like helmets, glasses, and more. Their website features several pre-planned routes for road, gravel, and mountain bikes, and two e-bikes are also available for rent. They offer special cycling packages for 3, 5, and 7 days for their guests.

Vila Robida can accommodate up to 35 guests with eight rooms and three apartments available. A wellness area with a pool, sauna, and jacuzzi offers the perfect opportunity to relax after a long ride. To kick off your cycling day right, they serve a rich breakfast highlighting local products – like cheeses from Kmetija Korošec, which we’ll be visiting as one of our tour stops.

the hardest part – climb to prebeneg

This cycling tour, suitable for both electric and regular mountain bikes, can start at the Karst Edge Visitor Center or at the paid parking lot beneath the world-renowned climbing area – Mišja Peč in Osp. We chose the latter and from there rode into the center of Osp, one of Slovenia’s oldest villages (first mentioned in 1067), known for the Church of St. Thomas from the 18th century. Just above the clustered part of the village, the first majestic view opens up onto the so-called Osp Wall, also a true magnet for climbers from around the globe.

From the village, the route continues along the main road or via a dirt track, past the Vovk inn and campsite, through the Osp Valley towards the former Italian border. A few hundred meters after the old border crossing, at the sign for the village Križpot or Crociato, turn right and begin the ascent. After a few more hundred meters, you’ll see a sign marking the start of the Slovenian mountain biking trail, where you’ll turn right again.

This marks the beginning of the most challenging part of our cycling tour. With an e-bike, and a bit of extra battery power, you’ll manage this section with ease. However, those on regular mountain bikes will need to push hard uphill. The route initially leads through olive groves and orchards, then continues into the forest. After this dynamic climb, you’ll arrive at the charming Slovenian border village of Prebeneg (Prebenico), which offers exceptional views of the Gulf of Trieste and its hinterland. Once through the village, continue along the main road towards Socerb.

KOROŠEC farm – home to traditional meat products and excellent cheeses

The first stop is Korošec Farm in the village of Socerb, right beneath the famous Strmec Castle. Located beside the village church, at Socerb 15, the farm has a small shop offering their homemade products.

The Korošec family has been making cheese for 46 years. They started with sheep’s milk cheese, but as Morena Korošec, the farmer, explains, she and her husband soon switched to cow’s milk cheese because cows produce milk year-round, unlike sheep. Today, with their son and daughter-in-law, they care for around 40 cows of the ‘sivka’ breed grazing behind the castle, in the area locals call ‘the Karst’. Five years ago, they expanded their selection of dairy products (young and aged cheeses, milk, yogurt, and cottage cheese) with a wide range of processed meat products from beef and pork, such as sausages, salami, pancetta, and prosciutto. This year, they also made ‘špehovka’, and once or twice a year they make hot dog sausagues from their own meat. They even offer fresh meat. Their signature product is the aged cow’s milk cheese, which won a silver award at last year’s ‘Dobrote slovenskih kmetij’ competition. They missed the gold by just one point and are aiming for it this year, Morena adds. You can buy these products exclusively at their store in Socerb. For current availability, call +386 31 501 116.

Pit stop at SOCERB

A great spot to enjoy your purchased goodies from Korošec Farm and take in the majestic view of the Gulf of Trieste is near Socerb Castle, where benches are available. It’s also worth spending a bit more time here to visit the nearby Holy Cave (Sveta jama), home to Slovenia’s only underground church. The cave is open on Sundays at 2 p.m. for guided tours. Visits at other times can be arranged by calling +386 41 693 014 or emailing franc.maleckar@guest.arnes.si.

The most majestic view

From Socerb, descend along the main road past Kastelc and continue toward Črnotiče. After the local quarry, turn right onto a gravel road leading toward the Črni Kal climbing wall. On your right, you’ll enjoy sweeping views of the Slovenian coast and the countryside around Koper. At the end of this gravel section, you’ll see the remains of the old Črni Kal fortress, also known as San Sergio Castle, above on your left.

The trail continues down a steep path, past the climbing wall, toward the center of the village Črni Kal, where you can stop to admire a local curiosity – the leaning church bell tower. From there, descend to the former Koper–Ljubljana main road, cross it at the pedestrian crossing, and continue down to the Karst Edge Visitor Center. Here, you can get more tips for exploring the area and enjoy a nearby viewpoint over the motorway viaduct and the new railway line. The route continues past the Visitor Center, the Church of St. Nicholas in Gabrovica, and the site of a former partisan print shop. At the end of the village, a scenic gravel path between olive groves leads you back to the parking area below Mišja Peč.

A relax finish at VOVK

In Osp, an essential post-adventure stop for outdoor enthusiasts—especially climbers and cyclists – is the Vovk Inn. “Originally, this was a farm where my parents grew vegetables, but later they turned to tourism,” says Sorina Vovk, who took over the inn and campsite 18 years ago. Her sister later joined her. Her parents started the campsite 34 years ago and later opened the inn. The campsite offers 40 to 45 tent sites and two mobile homes, with plans to expand. The campsite is open all year, while the inn is open on weekends and is known for its delicious homemade gnocchi with wild game. Sorina’s father is a hunter, so the meat is local and fresh, and the gnocchi are made in-house. They also strive to use locally sourced ingredients whenever possible, Sorina adds.

The relaxed atmosphere and warm hospitality at the Vovk Inn were the perfect ending to this cycling tour.

KEY INFORMATION ABOUT THE ROUTE